Scientific journal NRU ITMO
Series "Processes and Food Production Equipment"
Registration certificate ЭЛ № ФС 77 – 55245 - 04.09.2013
registered by the Federal Inspectorate Service for Communication, Information Technologies and Communication Media
ISSN:2310-1164

2020 (published: 23.03.2020)

Number 1(43)

Home > Issue > The influence of lipid and protein fractions of ostrich fat on the biological activity of cosmetic cream

UDC 665.584.22

The influence of lipid and protein fractions of ostrich fat on the biological activity of cosmetic cream

Gorbacheva M.V., Tarasov V.E., Kalmanovich S.A.

The article concerns an interrelation between fat and protein fractions of ostrich fat in night cream formulation to model its functional properties. Since cosmetic products are usually a multicomponent mixture, it is important to ensure their effectiveness in terms of the mutual compatibility of each ingredient and their effect on the properties of the cosmetic. The analysis of patent and other scientific and technical information has confirmed the absence of cosmetic products, which include liquid and solid fractions and connective tissue of raw ostrich fat, on the market, which determines the relevance and novelty of the proposed cosmetic products. The objects of research were: experimental versions of night cream for skin care for hands, face, and body based on fat and protein fractions of ostrich fat. The cream was prepared in accordance with the standard technology for producing a direct oil-in-water emulsion. The Sheffe method of simplex lattices was used to select the ratio of biosubstances in the cream formulation. The following factors were investigated: mass fraction of refractory (X1), low-melting (X2) fractions of ostrich fat, and protein hydrolyzate from the connective tissue shell of ostrich fat (X3). The response function was the skin properties: moisture, % – (Y1), firmness, sec. – (Y2) and elasticity, mPa – (Y3). During the research, the concentrations of fat and protein components were selected to ensure optimal quantitative filling of the cream structure with fat and amino acid components, providing an increase in its moisturizing, regenerating, and softening properties. The biological activity of the proposed night cream recipe is due to the mechanism of action of the three main components of the composition. The solid, liquid, and protein fractions, forming an occlusal film on the surface of the skin and contributing to the “shielding” effect, have an equal positive regenerating effect on the skin. The calculated optimal ranges of ostrich fat fraction were used in the night cream formulation.
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Keywords: cosmetics; biological activity; ostrich fat; functional properties modeling; night cream

DOI 10.17586/2310-1164-2020-10-1-47-56

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